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Tourist places in and around Mahabalipuram

Arjuna's Penance

This is believed to be the largest open-air bas-relief in the world, carved almost entirely on one side of a cliff. This structure shows Arjuna doing penance to obtain a special weapon for the Mahabharata. Along with this, carvings of celestial beings, sun, moon, sages meditating, scenes from a forest, animals are birds are also seen. This relief has a fissure, and carvings in it are believed to depict the flow of Ganges on earth, also called Descent of Ganga. Legends have it that King Bhagiratha had to bring Ganga down to earth so he could free the souls of his ancestors. Since the heavy flow of Ganga would devastate the earth, he performed severe penance so Lord Shiva would receive the river in his matted locks and let it drop down. In fact just above the cleft is the ruin of a stone water tank from where water used to descend through the cleft.

Arjuna's Penance, an enormous relief made on two huge boulders, is the universe Arjuna Penance itself in stone, throbbing with a vastness of conception. This colossus of art, 27 metres long and 9 metres high, is perhaps the world's largest bas-relief. The cleft in the rock depicts the descent of the Ganga, brought to earth by King Bhagiratha to redeem the cursed souls of his ancestors. The two large elephants are remarkable for their artistry, and so are the scenes from the Panchatantra. There is a forest with tribal people and all forms of animal life, just as they would appear in their habitat. Women are clothed in an aura of ineffable grace, a rich inner beauty transfiguring the plainest of them. The whole scene has a delicate edge of humour. Juxtaposed against the ascetic is a cat doing rigorous penance too, eyes firmly shut, even to the delectable mice scampering around within easy reach.

Near the cave temples is the great open- air sculpture popularly known as "Arjunas' Penance". A great rock wall (96 feet long and 43 feet high) with a fissure in its middle, is ornamented on both sides with sculptured figures of deities, human beings, Negas and a variety of animals all together numbering about 1000 and each figure is a study in itself. All these figures are carved either facing or approaching the fissure and generally with hands folded in adoration. On the left side of the fissure can be seen a simple temple which contains a four- armed deity, probably Siva. The figure is sculptured with Nagas. Above the fissure and on either side of it are flying figures of Gods and below are some sculptures of animals of which giant elephants are the most impressive and are considered to e the noblest creationgs of the human mind. A monkey family has also been depicted in a very exquisite and appealing manner. In the liveness of each figure, we can notice the intense and naïve love of life that characterises the Buddhist art at Sanchi. Rene Grousset has observed: "What we have before us here is a vas picture, a regular fresco in stone. This relief is a masterpiece of classic art in the breadth of its composition, the sincerity of the impulse which draws all creatures together round the beneficent waters and its deep, fresh love of nature.

What is depicted here in the great open- air sculpture has a story behind it and has been the subject of difference of opinion among historians.

The older theory is that it represents the penance of Arjuna dudring his exile in the Himalayas, to get from Lord Siva His famous weapon of war, Pasupata, and to conquer the Kauravas. This popular interpretation is generally accepted by all. Visitos will be amused by the comic scene in the relief where a cat is standing doing penance, while big and small rats are freely playing around the feline Tapaswi.

Some historians like Fergusson, Burgess, Vogal, Touvean Dubreine and langhurst have no accepted the above theory but put forward different ones which are given below.

The view held by Fergusson and Burgess is that this sculpture represents"Seerpent Worship" in ancient India and that "in the centre on a projecting ledge between the two great masses of rock once stood the statue of the great Nagaraja who was the principal personage for whose honour this great bas- relief was designed". Vogel is of the view that the group of Arjuna and Siva did not really form the centre of the sculpture and that "once there existed here a sacred spring and the water gushing forth from the cleft was the real aim and object of all the adorning figures." A later theory supported by langhurst and Dr. Coomaraswamy is that it depicts the "Descent of the Gangas" from the height of Kailasa. It this view is accepted, then the personage who has been identified as Arjuna should be called Bhagiratha and this great sculpture as bhagiratha's penance and not Arjuna's. But no local tradition exists which can serve as a real clue to its origin.

Another piece of architectural beauty deserving study and close observation is the "Shore temple" standing against the background of the deep blue waters of the ocean. It belongs to a period when the constructional style of the Pallavas was at its peak in its decorative beauty and intrinsic quality. This building has become worn out by the corrosive action of the saline sea water and air and the sculptures have become indistinct. There are a number of carved rocks and a small excavation with the figures of Durga, around the temple.

There are also some monuments at Mahabalipuram like Ganesa Ratha, Dharmaraja Mandapam, Kodigal Mandapam, etc., which merit cursery survery.

Thus the group of monuments at Mahabalipuram, as observed by Heninrich Zinna, "developed an ideal of the human form that was unique, something quite its own, when compared with the works of the rest of the Indian mainland." It is the reputed birth place of Bhutattalwar, an early Vaishnava Saint. There was a reputed Vaishnava shrine which has been praised by Tirumangai Alwar in his humans.

IT was built during the reign of Narasimhavarman I and is one of the world's lagest and finest stone bas - reliefs. It is sculpted across a huge whale back shaped rock, measuring 27 metres in length and 9 metres in height with a fissure in the middle. On either sides of the rock cleft are carvings depicting denizens of the triple world of gods and demi - gods, of men, birds and beasts and of nagas and nymphs, all blending harmoniously into the theme of the penance of Arjuna, the hero of the great epic Mahabharta. Some also believe that it depicts the penance of Bhagiratha, an ancestor of Lord Rama, who was sent on a mission of redeeming the souls of his ancestors.

Cave Temples

Rock Cut in Mahabalipuram The Varaha Cave, a small rock-cut mandapam (hall), is a faceted and finished gem with two incarnations of Vishnu-Varaha (boar) and Vamana (dwarf). Particularly noteworthy here are four panels of the famous Pallava doorkeepers. There is about them a mood of contemplative reverie, a lyrical softness and subtle grace totally at variance with the primordial machismo their role as guards of the gods imposes on them. The Dharmaraja Cave, built in the early seventh century, contains three empty shrines. The Mahisasurmardini Cave (mid-seventh century) has fine bas-reliefs on its panels of enduring beauty. The Somaskanda sculpture radiates peace, power, and wisdom while Lord Vishnu is shown in omniscient repose in a masterpiece of dhwani (the art of suggestion). On the opposite side is a huge theatrical panel showing, Goddess Durga's fight with the demon Mahishasura, an episode culled from the celebrated Sanskrit poem Devi Mahatmya.

About 5 km north of Mahabalipuram is another cave called Tiger Cave, a rock-cut shrine possibly dating back to 7th century.

A little further away on a higher group of the boulder formations are to be found the cave temples. Of these the most notworthy are the ones known as Trimurti, Varaha, Durga and pancha Pandava. As an early observer remarked, "the greater part of these temples are excavations of the fashion of Ellora and Elephanta, superior in tast and symmetry, though far interior in dimensions to the first named."

Tirumurti Cave (28 feet by 14 feet). It contains a row of three shrines wherin bas- reliefs of the Trinity (Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva) have been carved out. In each of the panels two dwarf attendants aer flying in the air in the upper part of the sculpture, while in the lower part two devotees with matted locks are seated, All the three deities have their left hands on their hips and the right hands are in the Abhaya pose. All of them have their characteristic weapons in their hands. The Sankha and Chakra that Vishnu has hands have been sculptured in such a way that they do not appear to face the visitor as found in all other places in the South; only their sides can be observed. They are, therefore, called the Prayoga Sankha and Chakra, i.e., weapons int eh act of being used. In the projecting rick above the cells have been cut Gavakshas (leaf shaped windows).

Varaha cave (33 feet by 14 feet by 12 feet). This is a cave shrine with an attractive frontage facing west. Here the Varaha and Trivikrama incarnations of Vishnu have been sculptured in an impressive manner. At the Chalukyan capital Vatapi (Badam which was conquered by Narasimha Varman, we find similar monuments but the workmanship there is rather crude and immature).

Further magnificent reliefs representing Surya, Durga Gajalakshmi (Goddess of Wealth accompanied by elephants) and two groups which represent the kings Simha Vishnu and Mahendra Varaman with their queens may also be seen here.

Durga Cave (33 feet by 13 feet by 17 feet). Ahuge rocky eminence has been hewn into a large cave to house three shrines. The central one is intended for a Linga and has on its wall a bas- relief of the Somaskanda group. On either side are the busts of Vishnu and Brahma and below is Siva's vehicle Nandi the bull. This cave contains the well- known Mahishasuramardini and Vishnu. Also Seshasayana sculptures which for their simple and skilful representation of spirited scenes have drawn unstinted admoration even from foreign observes. The grace with which the sculptor has depicted calmness and repose in one and intense activity and virility in another, the former in the panel of the slumbering Vishnu on the southern wall and the latter in the panel of Durga's onslaught on the baffalo- headed demone on the northern wall, is noteworthy.

In the Mahishasiramardinin panel (12 ¾ feet by 8 feet) the story of Durga slaying the demon king Mahisha has been depicted. Durga is represented with the Sankha and Chakra which are the emblems of Vishnu. The legend connected with this sculpture is that once the Gods were beaten and driven out of Heaven by the demon king Mahisha. Then a light representing the inherent energy came out from each God, which all combined together to form a luminious body which eventually assumed the shape of a damsel- Durga. Durga got from all the Gods their respective weapons with which she fought Mahisha and his demons and at last killed them.

The Seshasayana panel (13 feet by 8 feet) which has been chiseled in the unconventional manner is simple and appealing and is stated to be a rare monument the like of which cannot be seen elsewhere. The peculiar feature about Vishnu represented here is that He has only two hands and his emblems, the conch and the discus, are absent in His hands.

Pancha Pandava Cave (29 feet by 12 feet). This is really a mandapa constructed probably in the Post- vijayanagara period. It has been praised by some as charming pastoral scene of caves, cowherds and cowherdesses. The story of Krishna protecting the cows, etc. from the rain lifting Govardhana Giri has been depicted here.

Rathas

A group of structures lying at the southern extreme of Mahabalipuram, amidst casuarina trees, are the famous Rathas (chariots). The Pancha Pandava Rathas, as they are called, are five in number. Out of these, four are carved out of a single rock, while the fifth on the west is scooped out from a small rock. The square Draupadi and Arjuna Rathas, the linear Bhima Ratha, the taller Dharamraja Ratha and the apsidal Nakula-Sahadeva Ratha, constitute the complex.

It is said that it was Mahendra Varman (600.630 AD.) who introduced in the South the cave style of temple architecture. InMahabalipuram we can find a group of boulder formations on the seashore, out of which numerous cave temples, sculptures and monolithic temples have been carved out. These monolithic temples or Rathas are known as the "Seven Pagodas," though now only five exist. These Rathas are named after the five Pandava brothers and their wife Draupadi. These are not really chariots or cars nor have they anything to do with the heroes of the Mahabharata. They are simply temples intended for the worship of Siva, Durga and some other unknown deities.

Five Rathas

These rock-cut temples are rated as excellent example of Pallava art. Shaped in different styles, the five structures are named after the Pandava brothers of Mahabharatha and Draupadi. These are monolithic temples, each created in a different style, they are also known as the Pancha Pandava Rathas, and the fort of the rathas are supposed to have been scooped out of a single rock formation.

Dharmaraja Ratha

It measures 29 by 35 feet and is shaped as a pyramind. Narasimha Varman I is considered by Hultzzen to be the author of this monument. The figures of Gods and men sculptured in the niches of the first three storeys of this Rahta, and the lonely words inscribed in bold and flowery letters, attract our attention. The first floot of the Ratha contains the familiar Somaskanda group (Siva with Parvati and Subrahmanya). One special feature about the treatment of the figure of Parvati is that she is looking at Siva instead of at the spectator as in other simllar groups. The external face of the Rahta holds in its rectangular niches images of divinities, some of which are unfinished and some unidentifiable.

Bhima Ratha

This measures 48 by 25 by 26 feet and is found north of the Dharmaraja Ratha, with a waggon- shaped roof. The upper part of the edifice has almost been completed while the lowerpart has not been finished. This leads to the conclusion that the architect worked from the above. There are no sculptures or inscriptions on this Rahta.

Arjuna Ratha

This measures 16 by 11 by 14 feet and stands north of Bhima Rahta. It is pyramidal in shape just as the Dharmaraja Ratha. As this could be conveniently used as a shelter house, it has been somewhat damaged through use by vagrants and wayfarers. An attracactive feature of this monument is the group of secular sculptures found on it. There are also images of Siva with his bull, Vishnu, and Indra with his elephant.

Draupadi Ratha

This, measuring 14 by 11 by 14 feet, is a plain, tiny- looking hut- like monolith, north of Arjuna ratha. Above the entrance and the niches on the three walls we find Markara Toranas (arch ornaments showing heads of the heraldic shark). The back wall contains a relief of Durga with attendants and worshippers.

Sahadeva Ratha

This (18 by 11 by 16 feet) stands to the south- west of Arjuna Ratha and has the peculiar shape of a horse- shoe at the back. Consequently, the roof has also a semicircular end. But the front of the roof is wagon shaped like Bhima Ratha.

Though all the above five Rathas are similar in style they vary in form. Around the rathas are grouped some fine monolithic sculptures of animals- lion, bull and elephant. Though these figures cannot be said to have been carved out with extreme skill and dexterity, yet they have their own charm and elegance.

Ganesha Ratha

The oblong monolithic strcture is the only Rath which has been completed.

Kanchipuram

A 66 km stretch of sun-scorched road connects Mahabalipuram to the fabled city of a thousand temples, Kanchipuram. There are 650 stone inscriptions in Kanchipuram belonging to different dynasties. The temples here reflect the maturity and efflorescence of Pallava art and the ornate and often imposing embellishments were produced later by the Chola, Vijayanagara and Chalukyan kings. There is a solemn grandeur, a grandiosity of vision and ornamental excess in the temples here. A disembodied otherworldly stillness impregnates their vast inner domains where time is a captive fugitive. The Ekambaranathar temple, the Kailasanatha temple, Sri Varadaraja temple, Sri Vaikuntaperumal temple-the names stretch endlessly. The city itself is dedicated to the presiding deity, Sri Kamakshi (one with eyes of love) at the Kamakshi temple. In Sanskrit, the word Kanchi denotes girdle, and poets have allegorically characterized the city as a girdle to the earth.

Vedanthangal Water Bird Sanctuary (53 km)

Located 53 km from Mahabalipuram, Vedanthangal is one of the oldest bird sanctuaries in India. The sheer number of birds that visit this sanctuary is amazing. It is said that almost 1,00,000 avian species of varied shapes, sizes and hues-including storks, egrets, cormorants, darter, and flamingos-visit this sanctuary between October and March.

The sanctuary established in 1858, is the oldest in the country. It sprawls across 30 hectares of marshy land and has a lake, which is visited over 1, 00,000 migratory birds every year. The regular visitors to the park are garganey teals, shovellers, pintails, stilts and sandpipers. Resident birds like coots, moorhens and terns can be seen all around the park. The nesting season is between October and February and is also the right time to visit. The park has two watch towers and one viewing platform.

One of the major water bird sanctuaries in India. The birds migrate here every year from November to February, from all over the world.

Kovalam (covelong) (15 km)

Just 19 kilometres from Mahabalipuram is situated the picturesque beach resort of Covelong, a quiet fishing village with the remains of a fort. Facilities for windsurfing, swimming and water sports are available here. If you are in Mahabalipuram, don't miss out on a visit to this place.

This small fishing village 38kms south of Chennai has emerged as one of the finest beach resort in the country. There are ruins in the country. There are ruins of a large historic fort, part of which have been converted into a luxurious resort the Fisherman's cove Resort of the Taj group. Olive Ridley Turtles visit the beach every year between Nov and Mar to hatch their eggs.

Crocodile & snake Bank (15 km)

The Crocodile bank is situated barely 14 km from Mahabalipuram on the Chennai-Mahabalipuram road. Set up by an American named Romulus Whitaker in 1976, the number of crocodiles in the bank grew in its first 15 years from just 15 to over 5,000. Located nearby is a snake farm where anti-venom is produced for treating snakebites.

This crocodile farm was set up to provide stocks of the once numerous crocodiles for wildlife reserves. The farm is located 14 km north of Mamallapuram on the Chennai road. Taxe a taxi or bus from Chennai and be awe-struck by the magnificent creatures.

The ‘Crocodile Breeding and Research centre' is run by chennai Crocodile Bank Trust, to augment the crocodile population of India'' wildlife sanctuaries. It also has breeding programmes for turtle species found in India. He snake Bank is located adjacent to the Crocodile Bank and iws managed by Irula snake Catchers' Industrial Cooperative Society. Irulas tribals are known for the art of snake catching.

Muttukadu

An ideal place for water sports, Muttukadu is 21 km from Mahabalipuram. The Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation (TTDC) has a boathouse here. Visitors can enjoy boating, canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfing. The Dakshina Chitra of Madras Craft Foundation here has replica of an old agricultural house of Tamil Nadu, replica of Kanchipuram weavers house and replicas of ancient houses presenting the lifestyle of South India.

Shore Temple

This magnificent temple is believed to be the lone survivor of a set of seven temples in Mahabalipuram. One of the oldest temples constructed in Dravidian-style, the Shore Temple is a declared UNESCO World Heritage site. Almost entirely covered in carvings, the temple is a five-storeyed structure sporting shikharas with overhanging eaves and placed on a square platform. Within the main complex are three temples, the main dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is the patron deity here. Before you enter the sanctum housing the partially-damaged shivling, you'd be confronted with two carved Dwarpalakas who appear to protect the sanctum. The temple walls are also lined with carvings of Brahma, Vishnu, Parvati, Skanda, Gaensha, Narasimha and Durga.

The other two temples in the complex are dedicated to Lord Vishnu in a reclining position and Vishnu astride the Garuda, helping Gajendra, the elephant. Carvings depicting the life of Lord Krishna cover the wall surrounding the mandapas. Also worth noticing here is a rock-cut structure of two women riding a lion. Also beautiful is a carving of a buffalo demon running with a stick in his hand. The temple is particularly striking when it is lit up on weekends.

Open from: 6.00 am-5.30 pm Entry fee Rs 10 The windswept and surf-beaten Shore Temple, the mute tireless sentinel of the shore, is the ultimate expression of Mahabalipuram. A three-in-one abode of God-a Vishnu temple sandwiched between two Shiva temples-it is a visual delight, its precincts abounding in architectural masterpieces. On either side of it the sea spreads, illimitable and infinite. The compound wall of this temple is lined with charming sculptures of Nandi the bull while the figure of Vishnu is present in the sanctum sanctorum.

Mamallapuram, means seven temples. This referred to a group of seven temples and enclosures built on the beach. These shore temples represented the first attempt by the Pallavas at structure stonework. Before this their temporal buildings were presumably made of timber and brick, none having survived, and the temples as in so many other places in India were cut from solid rock.

The early Pallava kings were Buddhists and later Jains. By the time of the dynasty's golden age (AD 650-750) worship of Shiva held sway. The many bulls in the courtyard indicate that this is a Shiva temple, yet behind the main shrine is another dedicated to Jalasayana, Vishnu in his form of ‘sleeper on the waves', fair description of the temple. The lingam in the other shrine again shows allegiance to Shiva. The carvings on the temples have been badly eroded by salt and sand, but somehow it doesn't matter. This is a romantic place and especially so at sunrise.

It was previously believed that the works at Mamallapuram were commissioned by a number of different Pallava kings in the period AD600-728 (and in the order described above). Recently discovered inscriptions now confirm that all were the work of Narsimhavarman ll (otherwise Rajasimhan) (AD 700-728), clear evidence of the wealth and power of his kingdom.

The stately shrine set elegantly on the edge of the sea is a lone survivour among the seven magnificent temples built over here. The construction originally started around the middle of the 7th century and was later rebuilt during the reign of Narsimha Varman II, also known as Rajasimha. It is one of the oldest temples in south India and represents the first phase of structural temples constructed in Dravidian style. This icon of the soaring aesthtic aspiration of the Pallavas has been listed among the world Heritage sites of UNESCO and is one of the most visited monuments in Tamil Nadu. The Temple complex has three exquisitely carved shrines, which are approached through a paved forecourt. A temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu is flanked by two shiva temples, one facing the east and the other facing the west. Both the shiva temples are crowned by soaring spires, while the vishnu temple has none, as it may have crumbled with time. The Vishnu temple was built by Narasimha Varman I or "Mamalla", while the shiva temples were later built by his son Narasimha Varman

Thirukadalmallai

Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, this structure was built by a Pallava King as an effort to safeguard sculptures from being corroded by the ocean. There is also a separate shrine to Lord Narasimha, built in typical Pallava-style. A prasadam of tamarind rice, curd rice, pongal, vada and murrukku is offered daily to the god.

Thirukkalukundram (Pakshitheertham) (16 km)

The Hindu pilgrim centre is well known for the the small vedagirishvara Temple of Lord shiva, perched atop a 160m high hill. Here the temple priest feeds a pair of legendary white eagles, which are believed to be saints. These eagles visit the peak every noon at a particular time and are said to take rest here, on the way wilst travelling between the holy cities of Varanasi and Rameswaram. Another attraction of the temple is the holy tank, which produces a conch hence in every twelve years.

Varaha Cave Temple

Located next to Arjuna's Penance, this temple is a small rock-cut structure dedicated to Vishnu as a boar. The entrance to the temple has two pillars engraved with two-horned lions, as if protecting the shrine. This temple was built to commemorate the saving of Bhudevi (goddess earth) by Vishnu. Also visible here is a carving of Goddess Durga on a lotus, standing under the royal umbrella.

Open from: Sunrise-sunset, Monday-Friday
Entry fee Rs 5

Mandapams

There are fourteen caves and Mandapams in and around the historic town. The rock - cut cave temples are noted for unique architecture and exquiswitely sculpted fine bas - reliefs, depicting mythological scens. Some of the important ones are, Krishna Mandapam, Mahishasuramardhini Mandapam and Varaha Mandapam etc.

Krishna Mandapam

Dedicated to Lord Krishna, this temple has carvings depicting Krishna's life. A particularly imteresting carving is that of Krishna lifting the Govardhan Mountain to protect the locals. Other interesting carvings include a shepherd milking a cow, a farmer walking with a child on his shoulder, a shepherdess carrying a pot of curd and a woman carrying a rolled mat on her head and a tier of arranged pots in her hand.

Open from: Sunrise-sunset, Monday-Friday
Entry fee Rs 5

The Krishna Temple is one of the earliest rock-cut temples of Mahabalipuram. The walls of the temples depict scenes of pastoral life, one with the image of Krishna lifting the Govardhan Hill in his fingertips to protect his people from Indra.

The Krishna Mandapa to the south is a cave temple. A relief of pastoral scenes includes Krishna lifting up the mountain at Goverdhan to shelter villagers from the rain. It is best to head north from here and then work you wau south down the ridge.

This cave has a big bas-relief, notable for its realistic representation. The panel relates one of the stories of Lord Krishna. Bas-Relief. The World's largest bas relief measuring 27m X 9m is the pride of Mamallapuram. This huge whale back shaped rock contains figures of gods, demigods, men, beasts, birds and infact, representatives of the entire creation.

Mahishasuramardini Mandapam

This rock-cut temple has three shrines inside, with carvings of Goddess Durga waging a battle against the Mahishasura demon. Other carvings include a sculpture of Shiva with Parvati, Ganesh and Skanda, Lord Vishnu in a reclining position on the serpent, Lord Brahma and Lord Vishnu.

Open from: Sunrise-sunset, Monday-Friday
Entry fee Rs 5

Pancha Rathas

This is a fine example of a monolith rock-cut structure in Mahabalipuram. Dedicated to the pandavas and their wife Draupadi, each shrine is built out of a single piece of stone. Draupadi's Rath is a hut-shaped structure located at the entrance of the entire complex and dedicated to Goddess Durga. Carvings of Durga standing on a lotus and worshipped by two devotees and a carving of the lion, enhance its appeal. Arjuna's Rath is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and is striking for the absence of carvings on the inner walls. The outer walls, however, have interesting carvings of Lord Vishnu, Lord Indra and two women. A figure of Nandi Bull is also present, though it is incomplete. The Nakul and Sahadeva Rath is dedicated to Lord Indra and has carvings of elephants, which face the sea. The Bhima Rath is particularly striking because of its magnanimous shrine and pillars carved with lions. Yudhishtar Rath is possibly the largest of all Rathas and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The peculiarity of this temple is the absence of stairs from the ground to the first floor, though stairs are present from the first to the second floor. You'd also find here a carving of Ardhanareshwar, a blend of Shiva and Parvati. Other carvings include those of Lord Krishna and Lord Vishnu, a devotee holing a flower basket and a temple priest holding a set of keys. The Ganesh Rath is the only complete structure in this complex. It was earlier dedicated to Lord Shiva, and now is a shrine to Lord Ganesha.

Entry fee Rs 10 This set of five magnificent monolithic rock temples located in a sandy compounde are considered to be an architectural prototype in the evolution of Dravidian temple architecture. The mini shrines studded with gopurams and vimanas, multi pillared halls and sculptured walls are chiselled out of big boulders in the form of temple chariot (Rathas). The Rathas are assigned to Pandavas, the heroes of Mahabharata and their wife Draupadi.

Trimurti Cave

Another rock-cut temple, it is dedicated to the Hindu Trinity Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Carvings of a Shivling and Lord Brahma adorn the first two cells. The third cell has an image of Goddess Durga, who is depicted stamping Mahishasura's head. Also present adjacent to it is a rock-cut zoo, which depicts carvings of an elephant, a calf, a monkey and a peacock.

Replica of Arjuna's Penance

Located close to Krishna Mandapam, this was possibly started as an effort to replicate Arjuna's Penance. Though incomplete, you can catch a glimpse of the efforts put in to create it.

Adivaraha Temple

Located close to the Mahishasura Mandapam, this shrine is dedicated to Vishnu as a boar. Carvings of Vishnu's 10 reincarnations (the 9th being as Buddha), adorn the walls. Carvings of shiva receiving the Ganges in his matted locks are also visible. Vishnu seated on the lotus and surrounded by his queens, Goddess Lakshmi on a lotus and two figures of Pallava kings are other interesting carvings inside.

Krishna's Butterball

This is one of the most striking elements of Mahabalipuram near Ganesh Ratha. This huge natural rock is perched on a hillside and does not move. In fact, the Pallava kings had once tried to move it with the help of elephants, but were unable to do so. It also provides a respite from the heat if you dare to sit beneath it!

Several more cave temples are cut into the ridge and have reliefs showing familiar scenes. The large balanced rock is known as krishna's Butterball.

This huge boulder perched precariously on a hill slope near the Ganesh Ratha is an amazing marvel of nature. It is believed that the Pallava kings tried their best with the help of elephants, to move this boulder, but were unsuccessful.

Tiger's Cave (5 km)

The mere mention of this is likely to conjure up images of prowling tigers, but that is absolutely not the case! This cave derives its name from a lone cave with tiger heads set around the temple. This cave is a favourite picnic spot and contains a shrine dedicated to Goddess Durga.

on the way to Crocodile Bank, is described as a cave temple. It has a shrine to Durga, but is of minimal interest. Thirukkalikundram (thiru, sacred, plus kaliku, eagles, plus kundram, hill) is a small village dominated by its temple atop a 160m hill. The priests here feed a pair of kites reputed to fly down from Varanasi and return each day. The spectacle takes place any time between 11 am and 2pm and easily justifies the sweaty slog up the hill. The hilltop also gives an aerial view of a large temple at its base, may be worth a look.

Take a taxi or bus from Mamallapuram or Chingleput on Chennai Trichy railway line. Perhaps a direct bus from Kanchipuram, otherwise change in Chingleput. The temple tour from Chennai calls here, usually too late to see the kites.

This attractive monument lies at the outskirts of Saluvankuppam, a beautiful coastal village north of Mamallapuram on the Kovalam Road. It is set behind the façade of gigantic, prancing yalis (beasts) and has a shrine dedicated to goddess durga.

Mamallapuram Beach

This is one of the cleanest and well-kept beaches in India, close to the Shore Temple. The shore is fringed with casuarinas groves and provides spectacular views of the sunrise and sunset. You can also enjoy a session of swimming here, though you must remember that nudity is strictly prohibited here.

The beautiful beach lined by the lush Casuarina groves is another attraction of Mallampuram. One can enjoy swimming in the serence warm blue sea, laze around on the golden sands and admire the nature's beauty.

Government College of Sculpture

Located 2 km from Mahabalipuram, this is the best place to catch a glimpse of how carvings and rock-cut architecture was done. You can also undertake a course of creating sculptures in wood and stone.

It has about 3000 exquisite sculptures made by local artisans in wood, metal, brass and even cement. The meseum is associated with the college of Traditional Art and Architecture, which has produced many fine sculptors.

Nithya Kalyana perumal Temple (16 km)

It is considered to be one of the 108 sacred shrines called as Tirupathy. The presiding deity is shown holding Goddess Lakshmi (also called as ‘thiru') on her left side and is known as Thiru-Idathu-Eanthai or thiru-Vidanthai.

Sadras (13 km)

It is one of the finest beaches on Coromandel Coast and is also known for the ruins of the historic Dutch fort and a Dutch cemetery.

Dakshinchitra

This heritage village on the East Coast Road near Muttukadu showcases life in South India through traditional buildings and in some cases, whole streets which have been transplanted from various parts of South India.