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Agra

Agra is famous as being home to one of the seven wonders of the world-the Taj Mahal. The architectural splendour of the mausoleums, the fort and the palaces is a vivid remainder of the capital in the 16th and early 17th centuries.

While its significance as a political centre ended with the transfer of the capital to Delhi in 1634 by Shah Jahan, its architectural wealth has secured its place on the international map.

A pleasant town with comparatively slow pace, Agra is known for its superb inlay work on marble by craftsmen supposedly the descendants of those who worked under the Mughals on the Taj. The city is also famous for its carpets, gold thread embroidery and leather shoes. Agra was once the capital of the Mughal Empire and even today it seems to linger in the past. Not surprising, for the Mughal emperors with their passion for building, endowed the city with some of the finest structures in the world. It is very easy to slip away here through the centuries into the grandeur and intrigues of the Mughal court. Agra is an old city and it is said that its name was derived from Agrabana, a forest that finds mention in the epic Mahabharata. In more recent times Agra came into prominence when Sikandar Lodhi made it his capital city in 1501. The Lodi rule was to end very soon and Agra passed into the possession of the Mughals. It was during the time of the third emperor Akbar that Agra came into its own. He embarked on the construction of the massive Agra Fort in 1565. Though Akbar was diverted into building a new capital at Fatehpur Sikri not far away.

Agra continued to retain its importance and Shah Jehan, Akbar's grandson ornamented the city with that masterpiece of Mughal architecture - the Taj Mahal and built several other beautiful buildings within the Agra fort.

So overwhelming is the exquisite beauty and presence of this marble mausoleum that centuries later today, even the very land where it has been located - Agra - has been immortalised as the City of the Taj. Yet, it doesn't take much for the roving eye to discover that there's more to Agra than just the fabled Taj Mahal. The city is a virtual gateway to a world of discovery… a freeze-frame from a resplendent era that's long since gone by.

Much of the city's impressive past lives in evidence even today, in the haunting presence inside the monuments, the majesty of the buildings, the exquisite arts and crafts and not to forget, the lure of an exceptional cuisine… all, cherished as priceless legacies of a nostalgic past. The older city of Agra has impressively retained much of its resplendent history… captivating every visitor with fond memories to take back home. Today, luxury and modern convenience also exist adjacent to tradition - luxury hotels, shopping malls and plazas, wide avenues and a superb choice of venues for recreation, business, sports, pleasure, education and the arts.

‘The Taj city'

Agra is one of the most prominent destinations of the world Tourism map with three heritage monuments that includes- The Taj Mahal, Farehpur Sikri and Red fort. It is more than just a dacadent city of graveyards and stones. It is a vibrant centre of culture, art and religious philosophies that have enriched mankind and shaped human thought over centuries. Agra is famous for handiscraft products such as inley work on marble, leather work, footwear, brasswear, carpets,jwellery,zari and embroidery work.

Demography Agra has population of about 1,259,979. Males constitute 53% of the population and females 47%. Agra has an average literacy rate of 65%, higher than the national average of 59.5%; with 76% of the males and 53% of females literate.

History

Agra is globally knowns as the city to Taj Mahal. But this royal Mughal city has, in addition to the legendary Taj, many monuments that epitomise the high point of Mughal architecture. In the Mughal period, in the 16th and 17th centuries, Agra was the capital of India. It was here that the founder of the Mughal dynasty, Babar, laid out the first formal Persian garden on the banks of the river, Yamuna. Here, Akbar, his grandson raised the towering ramparts of the great Red Fort. Within its walls, Jahangirbuilt rose-red palaces, courts and gardens, and Shahjahan embellished it with marble mosques, palaces and pavilions of gem-inlaid white marble.

Agra is a town of ancient foundation, its first significance probably being as a border town when Aryan expansion was still limited by the River Yamuna. As such it would have been an important market, a tradition it has maintained ever since.

The Rajputs are known to have had a fort here, but Agra's documented history starts in 1504 when Sikander Lodi moved his capital from Delhi. However the Mughals in the form of Babuar took it in 1526 so Agra can be said to be a Mughal city, for long periods the capital of their empire.

The city's decline began in 1658 when Aurangzeb, after locking up his father Shahjahan in the Red Fort, left for his campaigns in the Deccan. His successors ruled a contracting and impoverished empire from Delhi. Agra was captured in 1761 by the Jats of Bharatpur who were forced out by the Marathas of Gwalior in 1764. The Mughals recaptured it in 1773, and the Marathas staged a comeback in 1785. Every time the place was looted and further damaged. Finally in 1803 the British took Agra for its strategic position; from there they could keep an eye on the mughals whom they still allowed to rule over Delhi, the Jats inBharatpur, and the various Maratha powers bases in pune, Gwalior, and Indore. The fort was besieged in a half- hearted fashion during the First war of independence, but since then Agra has peacefully carried on what it does best, trading and making money
Though the legacy of Agra city is linked with the Mughal dynasty, numerous other rulers also contributed to the rich past of this city. Modern Agra was founded by Sikandar Lodhi in the 16th century. Babar spent sometime in Agra. Emperor Akbar built the Agra fort and Fatehpur Sikri near Agra. Fatehpur Sikri remained his capital for around fifteen years after which the city was left isolated in mysterious circumstances. Jahangir revamped Agra with palaces and gardens despite spending most of his time in Kashmir.

Agra came to its own when Shah Jahan ascended the throne of Mughal Empire. He marked the zenith of Mughal architecture, when he built the Taj in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. Later, Shah Jahan shifted his capital to the new city of Shahjahanabad in Delhi and ruled from there. Shah Jahan was dethroned in 1658 by his son, Aurangzeb who imprisoned him in the Agra Fort. Aurangzeb shifted the capital back to Agra till his death. Following Aurangzeb's death, many regional kingdoms emerged. The post-Mughal era of Agra saw the rule of the Jats, Marathas and finally the British taking over the city.

Amazing Agra, immortalized as the ‘City of the Taj', is the most sought after tourist destination of India. The present city is said to be founded by Raja Badal Singh around 1475 AD. It became the capital of the Lodhi's and later came under the Mughals, when Babur defeated Ibrahim Lodhi in 1526 and established Mughal Empire in India. Agr witnessed a frenzy of building activity during the 16th and 17th centuries, under the regins of Akbar, his son Jehangir and grand-son shah Jaha. Magnificent forts, palaces, gardens and mausoleums were built, of these the Taj Mahal, the Agra Fort and akbar's abandoned capital of Fatehpur sikri, now feature on the UNESCO's list of world Heritage sites. The pomp and pageantry of Agra during this time was unrivalled and the city metamorphosed into one of the great centres of art, culture, learning and commerce.

The splendour of Agra the capital of India under the mighty Mughals-still remains undiminished after 500 years. A minor administrative unit saw its transformation to a world renowned city with the coming of Mughals. Centered around the timeless creatin, Taj Mahal, the city of Agra remains unparalled in history. Theepic ‘Mahabharata' refers to Agra as ‘Agarbana' a vital part of Braj Bhumi. In recent history, the town came into its own under the soverignity of Raja Badam Singh. and in spotlight, with the arrival of Sikandra Lodhi, who made it is capital. The golden age of Agra began in 1526 AD. and the following centuries saw the rise of Mughal monarchy, with emperors Akbar, jahangir and Shah Jahan, bestowing their time and wealth to transform Agra into to a centre of art, culture, learning and commerce.

Moving Around

The easiest mode for a city-tour is a taxi or auto-rickshaw remember to negotiate your fare though! Remember that no motorized vehicle is allowed in the Taj vicinity to cut down on air pollution so walk or hire a cycle-rickshaw.

Gourmet Feasts Agra

Agra is home to some excellent and most authentic Mughlai cuisine as well a wide variety of multi - cuisine restaurants and eateries. For some yummy Mughlai cuisine, head out to Navratan Restaurant, Shivakash Restaurant and Capri Restaurant. Malika Restaurant in Hotel ManSingh is a place to try out an endless variety of kebabs and tandoori food. For some non-greasy vegetarian fare, try out the spinach parathas at Zorba the Buddha. Dasaprakash offers some of the best South India fares that include sada dosa (plain rice and lentil pancakes), masala dosa (pancake with potato stuffing), uttappams (thicker pancakes), and idlis (steamed dumplings), all served with coconut chutney and sambar (spiced dal). Some better dining options include Jhankar at Taj View, Peshawari at Mughal Sheraton and Mughal Room at Clarks Shiraz. If you're looking for some Chinese and continental delights head out to Petals Restaurant and Gallops Fast Food. Finally, don't miss out on savouring a taste of Dalmoth (a savory) and Petha (a sweet made of white pumpkin).

Shopping Delights

Agra has both traditional and modern shopping areas. It is known for leather products, jewelry, rug weaving and marble work. The Sadar Bazaar area, and the area south of Taj Ganj, boasts of many emporia and shops. Shilpgram or crafts village is located 1 km from the eastern side of the Taj, from where one can buy good quality craft items. Of special importance is the miniature marble replica of the Taj.

Agra, known for its contemporary and fine arts traditions is an important center for handicrafts. Shopping in Agra is definitely an experience with several shopping areas and markets sprawled all across the city. Especially noted for its marble inlay work, leather goods, and zari embroidery, Sadar Bazaar and south of Taj Ganj are popular shopping areas. You can also head out to The U.P State Emporium that offers a wide selection of handicrafts under one roof. Visit the Shilpagram, craft village on the eastern side of Taj Mahal which is a popular open-air emporium. No matter where you shop, remember to bargain

This ancient city continues its tradition of craftsmanship with fine inlay work on marble, jewellery, leatherwork and brassware. Agra is famed for its marble table tops, trays, carved chests and decorative boxes inlaid with semi-precious stones in designs that imitate the floral motifs found in the Taj. Mughal miniature paintings too are a specialty of the region. Carpets and dhurries are intricately woven while zari and zardozi embroidery, like the rest of the crafts in Agra, are a legacy from the Mughal era. The Empress Noor Jahan herself was believed to have been an accomplished embroiderer. Agra also has a flourishing leather industry and exports good quality leather bags and jackets. Several handicraft items and miniature replicas of the Taj Mahal are found in abundance across Agra, and especially around the Taj complex. Shilpigram, a crafts village, is located near the East Gate of the Taj. The main shopping areas are the Sadar Bazaar, Kinari Bazaar and Munro Road. There are several shopping complexes and State emporia in Agra, located at the Taj Mahal Shopping Arcade, Western Gate, and around The Mall and MG Road.

Agra is one of the most important centres for handicrafts, marble and softstone engraved work. The Mughals were great patrons of arts and crafts. Empress Nur Jahan took personal interest and was an accomplished artist herself in zari embroidery work. Agra's major handicraft products besides inlay work are: leatherware, brassware, carpets, jewellery and embroidery work. Agra is also well known for its sweets, petha and Gazak and salty snack, Dalmoth. The main shopping areas of the city are Sadar Bazar, Kinari Bazar, Munro Road, Raja-Ki-Mandi, Sanjay Place.

Agra is known for its leather products, marble inlay work gems and jewellery besides the sweet petha. However you have to be very cautious and go to a reputed shop for quality products. Major shopping areas are the Taj Complex and Fatehbad Road. The state government Emporia are grouped at the Taj shopping arcade.

Festive Celebrations

Taj mahotsav: Organized every year by UP tourism between 18th and 27th February. It is basically an arts and crafts fair held at the Shilpgram, the crafts village near the Taj Mahal. Sharadotsav: This is a grand cultural show organized on the month of October wherein renowned dancers and musicians perform at historical location in the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri (40kms). The other fairs include the Kailash Fair ( August/ September) and the month-long Bateshwar Fair (November).

February marks the beginning of springtime and the Taj Mahotsava, which is a celebration of the arts and crafts, rich culture, heritage, music and dance. It starts with grand processions and you can watch elephants and camels adorned in jewellery; it's a ten day celebration that turns into one non-stop carnival. You can avail wood carvings from Saharanpur, earthenware of Khurja, metal ware from Moradabad and the all-time favourite chikan-work of Lucknow. The Urs Festival is celebrated at Sheikh Salim Chisti's Dargah at Fatehpur Sikri, during Ramzan. Also celebrated in February, the Kailash Fair is one of the most awaited fairs here. It is celebrated for Lord Shiva on the occasion of Shivratri, who is believed to have emerged by means of a stone lingam. The Bateshwar Fair held in October or November is also dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is visited by thousands of devotees, who take a dip in River Yamuna and participate in the livestock and cattle fair. Another interesting festival held annually in Agra is the marriage procession of Lord Ram & Sita, known as Rambarat. Actually a part of 'Ramlila', a drama on Lord Ram's life, this fair is marked by beautiful jhankis of the deities and the special set created of Sita's palace. The wedding is attended by a large number of devotees and the procession passes through different parts of the town. A special chariot bedecked with silver leaves is used as the mount of Ram. Especially stunning are the elaborate and heavy headgears.

Festivals

The Taj Mahotsav

One of the most enjoyable cultural festivals in India, is the Taj Mahotsav. This ten-day extravaganza is held in shilpgram, close to the Taj, and displays the extensive arts, crafts and culture of India.

Janmashtami

Lord Krishna's birthday is celebrated with much fanfare in nearby Mathura and Vrindavan towns. The entrie region celebrates this festival in special ways which go on for days.

Kailash Fair

This is held at Kailash, 12 km from Agra. It is a major fair celebrated in honour of Lord Shiva who is believed to have appeared here in the form of a stone lingam.

Rambarat

The marriage procession of Lord Rama called as ‘Rambarat' is held every year, during Ramlila celebrations at Agra. A new locale of the town in chosen as Janakpuri, which is elaborately decorated to perform the royal wedding. The ‘Rambarat' (marriage procession) starts from Lala Channomaiji Id Baradari for Janakpuri passing through different parts of the town. The barat is a large procession of jhankis followed by the swaroops of Rama and Lakshmana mounted on elephants and is yet another festival worth a photo.

Bateshwar Fair

This fair usually takes place during Shashthi of Kartik month to Panchami of Agrahayan month. Situated at a distance of 70km. From Agra on the banks of river Yamuna, Bateshwar is an important spiritual and cultural centre and also the birthplace of the former Prime Minister of India, Mr. Atal Bihari Vajpayee. The place is named after the presiding deity of the region, Bateshwar Mahadeo and has 108 temples dedicated to the Gods and Goddesses of the Hindu pantheon. Devotees congregate here in large numbers to worship Lord Shiva and take holy dips in the river, Yamuna. A livestock fair is alsi organised, and owners and buyers conduct serious business combined with the gaiety of a market place.

Tansen Samaroh

It marks the birth of India's most celebrated classical vocalist-Miyan Tansen who was born in Gwalior and was Emperor Akbar's favourite court singer. This festival in Gwalior, not far from Agra sees India's most famous classical musician's performers together at Tans en's tomb. An interesting sight is to see performers chew the leaves of a tamarind tree by the tomb which is believed to make the voice better. You too can try don't blame us if you are not that enamoured with the taste.

Staying There Agra

A tourist spot as visited as Agra, it has a range of hotels and accommodation options, ranging from budget to 5-star category, most located within the Taj vicinity. An exceptionally popular hotel, especially with non-Indians, is Hotel Yamuna View that offers the best of food, stay and a breathtaking view of the Taj Mahal from its rooms. Other luxury hotels include the Grand Hotel, Howard Park Plaza and Hotel Amar, most of which offer good value. If you're looking for more budget options, you can try the Hotel Ganga Ratan, Rahi Hotel Tajkhema and Hotel Delux Plaza, which offer relatively clean rooms and most amenities.

Trivia

Agra

Nur Jahan, who married Jahangir, was one the first women to wield political authority and rise almost to being the Empress of India. An extremely intelligent woman, she was the first to actually have coins minted in her name. She was extremely interested in art and the likes and brought about several changes in the clothing styles of men and women of that period. She was a skilled poetess and interested in architecture as well. Her finest example of architecture was the tomb she created for her father, Tomb of Itimad-ud-Daula, which is created in white marble, has Persian motifs and inscriptions, has four towers on the corner of the building and has a flat roof as the top of the tomb. She was also skillful in perfume-making, which it is believed, she learned from her mother. In fact, she is credited with inventing the rose itar (perfume) and the popular chikankari work found on clothes.

A visit to Agra is always filled with a sense of expectation and trepidation. As you approach the magnificent edifice - an extravagant tribute to an emperor's love for his wife - your mind flashes images of the myriad sunrise and sunset pictures you have seen of the Taj, the many poems you have read in praise of its beauty, and you wonder if it will disappoint. If this wonder of the world is not so wondrous after all. But as you enter its red sandstone gateway, the Taj hits you like a sliver of sunbeam in the eye. A colossal spectre that seems to hover in that space between waking and reality. It is as magnificent and awe-inspiring as you had wished it to be. The Taj does not disappoint. Many describe the Taj as Paradise. and indeed it is. With its dazzling white domes, arches and minarets; its finely carved patterns of turquoise petals and jade leaves that dance across archways, the celebrated mausoleum was meant to represent paradise on earth. Arabic verses inscribed in marble praise the glory of Paradise where Noor Jahan lies buried. and when you have sufficiently recovered from the spectacle of the Taj (although one never truly recovers from it) it is time to discover Agra. A maze of alleys, bazaars, mosques and cramped houses, the city is strewn with Mughal monuments. The abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri, a short drive out of Agra, is a marvel that cannot be missed. and a visit to Agra is in vain if you leave without sampling its Mughlai food and petha. Whether a quiet night at the Taj by moonlight or a hectic afternoon well-spent at the bazaar, make the most of your time in Agra. Shah Jahan would approve.

History

Pre-20th Century History
Not much is known about the pre-Muslim history of Agra and early records only go as far back as the Afghan invasion under Ibrahim Ghaznavi in 1080 AD. Agra became a city of importance in 1501 when Sikandar Lodhi of Delhi decided to shift his capital from Delhi to Agra. In 1526, the Lodis were defeated by Babar, founder of the Mughal empire in India, and Agra captured by his son Humayun. The city flourished during the Mughal era and was at its zenith during the rule of Akbar and Shah Jahan. Agra remained the capital of Mughal India throughout the reign of the Mughal emperors Akbar, Jehangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. Agra's most glorious days arrived under Humayun's son, Akbar, who built a number of monuments when he was in power, the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri being his most memorable contributions to the landscape of Agra. However, it was Shah Jahan, who gave Agra its most prized monument - the Taj Mahal. Built as proof of his undying love, the spectacular Taj Mahal was a mausoleum for his wife Mumtaz Mahal who died in childbirth. He was determined to make it the grandest monument in the history of the world, employing an army of 20,000 labourers, architects and engineers. Marble was brought all the way from Sri Lanka and Tibet and the structure took 22 years to complete. Shah Jahan soon built a new city in Delhi but Agra was back in the limelight in 1658 ,when his son Aurangzeb shifted the capital to Agra once again and imprisoned his father Shah Jahan in the Agra Fort. Agra remained the capital of India during the rule of Aurangzeb and until his death. With the end of the Mughal rule, Agra was ruled successively by the Jats, the Marathas and finally, the British.

Modern History

After the uprising of 1857, Agra was given up as the headquarters of the government of the North Western Provinces and the High Court was moved to Allahabad. Agra began to decline but its marvellous treasures remain intact to this day.

Recent History

Modern Agra is composed of the ancient city and the nineteenth-century British cantonment. Today Agra is a centre for industry, commerce, higher education, and tourism. Despite its modernity, traditional crafts such as marble carving, stone setting, and carpet manufacture are still in practice.

Orientation

The third apex of the 'Golden Triangle', Agra is situated on the west bank of the river Yamuna, 204 km south of Delhi. It shares its border with Mathura in the north, with Dhaulpur in the south, with Firozabad in the east, and Bharatpur in the west. The fort and the Taj lie at the heart of the town and the city radiates outward from here. The old part of the town lies to the north of the fort and is an area busy with the Kinari Bazaar along a narrow street. The modern part of the town is the cantonment area that lies to the south, in an area known as Sadar Bazaar. Across the river, one can find the inlaid marble tomb of Itmad-ud-daulah and Akbar's Mausoleum at Sikandra 10 km northwest. The beautiful, ancient ghost city Fatehpur Sikri lies 32 km to the west.

Events

Agra celebrates a number of festivals that range from the colourful Holi celebration seen across northern India to uniquely local fairs such as the Sheetla fair and the Kailash fair held at Kailash, 12 km from Agra in honour of Lord Shiva who is believed to have appeared here in the form of a stone lingam. In October, the tradition of Ram Lila continues during Dusshera and in Fatehpur Sikri, an Urs is held at Salim Chishti's dargah during Ramzan. Meanwhile, UP Tourism organises its own 10 day cultural festival, the Taj Mahotsav, which celebrates Agra's rich heritage of arts, crafts, cuisine, dance and music at the crafts village of Shilpigram. It opens with a grand Mughal style procession complete with caparisoned elephants and camels, folk artistes and drum beaters.

Places to eat

In Agra, it would be foolish not to sample the authentic Mughlai cuisine, with its rich cream-and-spice gravies, juicy kebabs, aromatic rice dishes and exotic sweets. It was here that Persian cooks experimented with Indian meats and spices to whip up the most delectable and enduring dishes that are an integral part of Indian cuisine today. However, it is best to be selective - some of the better restaurants in Agra are Peshawari, known for its mouthwatering Mughlai food at great prices, and 'Only Restaurant' on Taj Road a multi-cuisine place that serves Mughlai, Indian, Continental and Chinese food.Apart from its pulao and kheer, Agra is also known for its sweets gazak and petha, and salty dalmoth, which are available at every sweet and snack shop in the city.

Hotels

Away from the bustle of traffic and hawkers, is the area of Taj Ganj where most hotels are located. Luxury hotels may be found in the Cantonment area while the Sadar Bazaar area offers accommodation in all price ranges.

Annoyance

Agra enjoys the status of being the most popular tourist spot in India. Therefore, one can never be too careful with wallets and belongings. When shopping, avoid anything that requires to be shipped overseas and never let your credit card out of your sight. Avoid touts around the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri and do not hire stray guides who ask for advance payments.

Activities

Agra has a number of activities for visitors. The best way to soak in the historical sights of the city is by cycling through its narrow lanes and bazaars. Other activities such as fishing at Keetham Lake, birdwatching, golf and bowling are a great way to relax when you're done with sightseeing. Most sports and physical activities are catered to by hotels which offer squash, swimming, billiards and tennis facilities. The Parachute Training School in Agra offers a parachute training course while some hotels even offer a game of croquet