Chamba Pangi Trekking
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According to Mr Thakur Singh Bharmouri, Chief Parliamentary Secretary (Higher Education), who represents this tribal segment in the state assembly, the state government is all set to dedicate this highway to the tribal people. With the commissioning of this highway the exquisite Pangi tribal valley would be directly connected with the town of Chamba from where Pathankot, which is the main trade centre in the plains and is the nearest railhead of the country is just 120 km away. Thus, it would become the shortest route not only for the Pangwalas (residents of Pangi) but also for the tourists and trekkers visiting the enchanting abode of Pangi tribals. Earlier, the residents of the valley had to take a route of about 700 km via Pathankot, Kangra, Mandi, Kulu, Manali, Rohtang Pass, Keylong and Udaipur to reach Killar.
The opening of Chamba-Killar route would serve as a boon for the people of this tough and mountainous terrain, which has a vast tourism potential. For the tourists, the valley is a paradise. The state government has also planned to connect Leh, a famous tourist destination, through Padhar (Gulabgarh), a village in Pangi valley, as it would also be a shorter route to Leh as compared to the one via Jammu and Kashmir. The Pangi valley remains cut off from the rest of country for about seven months in a year.
Trekking in Chamba - Chamba Sach Pass Pangi Valley
A moderately strenuous journey of 9-10 days and the most commonly used crossing of the Pir Panjal Range. Local accommodation in the houses or in the villages and eating shops at every halting place make this trek particularly suitable for traveling light. Start at Trela, 80 km. N of Chamba, regular bus service. Trela is in two parts, Upper and Lower; the camp ground lies between the two beside the Trela stream. A few eating shops also provide basic accommodation. Porters can be hired from either Lower or Upper Trela.Day-1 - Bhanodi (2250m) 12 km
Start with a gradual but continuous climb of 6km to Alwas (1982m) through forest and along the W bank of the Trela Nala; reach Alwas after crossing a small stream coming from the left; a small temporary settlement with a few eating shops. Ahead, the track climbs through dense forest of walnut and pine for 6 km. to Bhanodi. Bhutias from Nepal inhabit this village; a few eating shops and cheap accommodation. Pitch tents 2 km. further on at a pasture among pine woods. Fresh milk and butter can be procured from Gujar houses in the forest.
Day-2 - Bhanodi-Satrundi (3505m) 8 km
The trail is well marked and clear throughout, initially climbing gradually then steeply for 3 km to the crest of a spur with a clear view of Satrundi and the pass. Descend steeply for one km and cross a stream; small tea shop here. Ahead is a continuous ascent of 4 km. over treeless green slopes to Satrundi; a charming camp ground with several gurgling streams and slopes covered flowers; many improvized eating shops, mostly run by Nepalis who also offer overnight shelter. A log hut built by PWD is situated under a big boulder. Fresh milk is plentiful. [From Satrundi a trail turns left (N) and ascends to Marotu Gali (4365m) to reach Baloa in Paddar, about 6km. from Shol, in the Kishtwar district of Jammu and Kashmir].
Day-3 - Satrundi-Sach Pass (5390m)-Dunai (3285m) 15 km
Soon the trail crosses a snow bridge to the right, climbs strenuously over a ridge, for 30 min then turns left, traverising a ridge; often snow covered. A well-marked beaten track over snow leads towards the pass which is reached in 3-4th; tea shop on top. The other side is a descent in snow on a glacier, though not really steep. Bagotu camp ground is reached after 4km. an eating shop here is run by Nepalis. Following the left side of the glacier, descend to Dunai, a two-roomed resting place situated under a huge overhanging cliff giving protection from winter snowfalls. A temporary settlement, like that of Satrundi, lies 50m ahead where food and accommodation can be had.
Day-4 - Dunai-Brindabani-Kilar (2450m) 17 km
About 1.5 km from Dunai the trail turns right, crosses two streams running close to each other, then follows the Dhedha Nala on its right. A short gradual descent of 8 km. on a fairly wide path, free from ice or snow, comes down to Brindabani (2712m); PWD rest house. As Kilar is only 9km. away, parties often carry on. Continue NE and after one km cross the Dhedha Nala to follow its left side for another 3km. Now turn right (E) where the path climbs for a while, traverses a rocky ridge for 3km, then drops down to the Chandra-Bhaga river which is crossed by a bridge to reach Kilar in another km. This is the HQ of Pangi Valley sub-district, a small township, essential provisions available. Accommodation at the PWD rest house. The Detang temple stands in a cedar grove near the rest house.
Day-5 - Kilar-Cheri forest rest house (2230m) 13 km
From Kilar a jeep track goes down gradually along the right bank of the Chandra-Bhaga river upstream for 5km, crosses the Karyuni Nala over a bridge to reach Sidh Baba Temple (Sidh Ka Dera). Another almost level walk of 6km brings you to Sach Gharat (water mill). Sach Khas Village is perched high up on the left. Stay at Cheri Forest Rest House located Near Sach Gharat. A mtorable road is being built to join Kilar with Udaipur in Lahaul Valley and is expected to be ready before 2005. If you are lucky, you may get a jeep ride which is supposed to leave Kilar for Bambal at 7 am.
Day-6 - Cheri FRH-Purthi 13km
The trail climbs gradually for about 5km to Bambal, a temporary road workers settlement with a few eating shops and Purthi is another 9km comfortable walk on the jeep track. The forest rest house of Purthi is located in a picturesque setting in the deep forest. This was built by a Britisher named Sir Tudd in 1851 who lived there for a long time. The ghost of his wife, who died here, is believed to still haunt the forest rest house.
Day-7 - Purthi-Raoli (2591m) 19 km
From Purthi you can take a direct bus for Manali which goes through Lahaul Valley, crosses Rohtang Pass and reaches Manali in 14th. In case the bus is not playing due to landslides, which are not uncommon, you can walk on the road up to Raoli; Tindi is another 13km further up. Forest rest houses at Raoli and Tindi. A newly constructed beautiful forest rest house at Suglwas between Purthi and Raoli.
Day-8 - To Sach Pass via Bairagarh - Normally, between 15 July and 10 October this alternative route can be taken from Trela to Satrundi via Bairagarh. A few snow gullies are blocked before 10-15 July. Bairagarh is connected by an early morning direct bus from Chamba. There is a beautiful PWD rest house at Bairagarh (2592m); reservations at Chamba. From here there is a wide and fine view of the valley below. By road Trela to Bairagarh is 8km, though half this distance by the footpath.
The 18 km stretch of road from Bairagarh to Satrundi of road from Bairagarh to Satrundi at the base of Sach Pass is jeepable. The ascent is gentle and passes through coniferous forests and Gujar herdsmen settlements. Comfortable on foot in 6-7h.