Monument Name Pancha Rathas Location Mahabalipuram State Tamil Nadu Timings Coordinates 12.609768, 80.190067 Wikipedia Links http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pancha_Rathas Entrance Fee Other Details

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These 7th century shrines (or temples; either term is appropriate) were carved during the reign of King Mamalla (Narasimhavarman I, c. 630 - 670), after whom the site is named. Each temple is a monolith, carved whole from an outcropping of rock. (The number of separate formations is a matter of debate; the four north-south temples may have been carved from a single mass.) The temples are unfinished, and so were never consecrated or used for worship.

The nomenclature of the buildings is unfortunate. They are called rathas (pancha rathas means "five chariots"), and named individually after Draupadi and the Pandava brothers, although they have nothing to do with temple carts or the Mahabharata. It would be better to call them vimanas and just number them 1 through 5, but the popular names have stuck.

The view in this photo is from the northwest. In the foreground is a carved lion. Behind the lion, from left to right in the photo, are the Draupadi, Arjuna, and Bhima Rathas (Dharmaraja Ratha is hidden in this photo behind the other structures). To the right is the Nakula Sahadeva Ratha.

The site gives the delightful impression of a city of life-size model buildings, whose variety of roofs, floor plans, and columniation defines a veritable source-book of South Indian temple forms. The architectural elements seen here will appear repeatedly, and with remarkably little variation, over the next 1,000 years of temple building in South India.

The ultimate origin of these forms traces back to wood construction, but opinions differ about whether their direct antecedents were secular or sacred, wooden or stone, buildings. It is likely, due to the advanced design of the Mamallapuram shrines, that temple building had previously undergone a substantial process of development, and that the shrines mark a rapid transition from the earlier wooden temples to later structural monuments in stone.

Draupadi, the smallest and simplest ratha, is formed as a bangla hut. Its primal energy seems suited to its occupant, the goddess Durga, whose representation decorates the outside and inside of the shrine. Even the shalabhanjikas guarding the doorway are aspects of the Goddess.

As often in Indian temples, a makara arch is carved above the doorway.

Draupadi Ratha, Mamallapuram

Durga stands surrounded by attendants, in this photo from the interior of the shrine. Below her and to the photo left, a devotee prepares to cut off his own head as a sacrifice to the goddess. It is thought that this horrible rite actually did take place - not too often, one hopes - in Durga temples.

Durga's association with decapitation is attested by scenes like this, and also by ritual texts and myth (Mahishasuramardini). However, I do not see how an unaided person could possibly generate enough force and leverage to sever his own neck. It seems much more likely that he is cutting his own throat instead, in a kind of symbolic decapitation - which still, of course, results in his death.

Arjuna Ratha

The shrine seems to resemble a small palace or pavilion, with sculpted pilasters, miniature roof shrines, and an octagonal dome, all characteristic features of later South Indian temples. The central sculpture shows Shiva, with legs crossed, leaning on Nandi. Click here for an enlargement (307 kb.

Shore Temple

The Shore Temple at Mamallapuram, built during the reign of the Pallava King Rajasimha (c. 700 - 728), is the earliest important structural temple in Southern India. Its three sanctuaries are dedicated to Vishnu and Shiva. Prominent in this photo are the temple walls, topped by large sculptures of Nandi, and its two steep pyramidal towers capped by octagonal domes.

As its name suggests, the Shore Temple overlooks the Bay of Bengal (Mamallapuram was the port city of Kanchipuram, the Pallava capital). Its location, so near the sea, has resulted in considerable erosion of the temple's superstructure.

Varaha Cave Temple

The Varaha cave temple is dated to the late 7th century, a bit after Arjuna's Penance. The columns of the temple entrance have lion bases, and the roof is topped by shrine models (closeup) which are very similar to those seen on the Pancha Rathas.

Krishna Mandapa

The relief contained in the Krishna Mandapa was carved in the mid-7th century. Its subject is Krishna Govardhana, in which Krishna lifts up the mountain to shelter his followers from a storm. The columns in the foreground are a later addition.