Bara Imambara (aka Bada Imambada) - बारा इमामबारा

Monument Name Bara Imambara
Location Lucknow
State Uttar Pradesh
Timings
Coordinates 26.8541  80.9164
Wikipedia Links http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bara_Imambara
Entrance Fee
Other Details Built In 1784
Built By Nawab Asaf-ud-daula
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Bada Imambara is a famous monument of Lucknow that has historical, cultural and heritage importance. Bada Imambara complex was commissioned by the then Nawab of Awadh, Asaf -ud-Daula in the year 1784. The complex also includes the large Asfi mosque, the Bhul-Bhulayah (the labyrinth) and a summer palace with running water.

It is important to know that Imambara are actually the replicas of tombs dedicated to the Holy Prophet (PBUH) and his family members. His family members are known as Ahl-ul-Bait. Imams are the religious heads of Shiite Islam who are connected to Prophet by blood. Most of the original tombs are located in different towns of Iraq and some in Saudi Arabia and Iran. Although all the Muslims love Prophet and his family members, Shiite Muslims have a special zeal for them. Imambara have a special place in the hearts of Shiite Muslims and is the seat of most of the meetings, gatherings and Azadari congregation. Bada Imambara is also the venue for annual Mohharum gathering that is staged to commemorate and lament the martyr hood of Imam Hussein, the grandson of Prophet Muhammad.

Like its junior cousin Chota Imambara, Bada Imambara was also built under the 'Food For Work' program initiated by the then Nawab of Awadh named Asad-ud-Daula. The primary objective in embarking on this grandiose project was to provide employment for people in the region who were devastated by persistent famines. The chronicles of History maintain that the famine continued for over a decade and the construction of the building continued for this time.

The architecture of Bada Imambara reflects the era when the ornamented Mughal design was on its pinnacle. In fact, it is the last puritan Indo-Islamic architecture and doesn't incorporate any European elements such as use of iron and spires. The sanctum of Imambara consists of a large vaulted central chamber containing the tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula. The hall that is 170 feet long and 55 feet wide stands 50 feet from the ground. It is interesting to note that it has no beams supporting the ceiling. In fact Bada Imambara is one of the largest arched constructions of its kind in the world.

There are as many as eight surrounding chambers built to different roof heights, permitting the space above these to be reconstructed as a three-dimensional labyrinth with passages interconnecting with each other through 489 identical doorways. This part of the building, known as is a popular attraction, and often the whole complex may be referred to as the Bhul-Bhulayah. It is possibly the only existing maze in India and came about unintentionally to support the weight of the building, constructed on marshy land.

The Bada Imambada is an important tourist attraction of Lucknow. It was built by the erstwhile Nawab of Lucknow to provide succor to the famine stricken people. Though it began as a charitable project, yet the large halls, vaulted galleries, and an intriguing labyrinth of interconnected passages within it make it an amazing edifice.

Islamic Style Of Architecture The Bada Imambada is an interesting building. It is neither a mosque, nor a mausoleum, but a huge building having interesting elements within it. The construction of the halls and the use of vaults show a strong Islamic influence.

Bada Imambada

When Asaf-ud-daula moved to Lucknow in 1777, he spent huge sums of money on new buildings to outshine the Mughal splendor. The great Imambada, symbol of Lucknow's fabulous architectural heritage, was built at a time when a great famine raged through the state in 1784.

Hundreds of men and women thronged to the city as utter destitute. Even the rich and noble were reduced to beg for food. Asaf-ud-daula hit upon a novel plan to help the poor. He decided to build the great Imambada and employed some 22,000 people to work day and night. One fourth of the day's work was demolished at night against payment. Thus, there was enough work.The names of the nobles were called out at night for payments to spare them the indignity of working with the masses. Asaf-ud-daula had a charitable disposition almost to a fault. He would have jewels inserted into muskmelons before distribution among the poor.

The Bada Imambada is, in fact, a great hall built at the end of a spectacular courtyard approached through two magnificent triple-arched gateways. This columnless hall has been an architectural marvel since 1784, with the interior length of 49.4 m and width of 16.2 m. The ceiling is more than 15 m high. The hall is Asia's largest without any external support of wood, iron, or stone beams. What leaves the visitor astonished is the construction of the roof. It is said to be 16 feet thick and weighs nearly 20,000 tons. One would fail to find out how this amazing work was accomplished without any recourse to known technology: there are no steel girders or beams to uphold the mammoth ceiling.

An ingenious method was employed for building the roof. This immense building is covered with vaults of very simple forms and still simpler construction, being of rubble or coarse concrete of bricks and mud, and allowed to stand a year or two to set and dry. The centering is then removed and the vault, being in one piece, stands without abutment or thrust, apparently a better and more durable form of roof than the most scientific Gothic vaulting.

It is certainly far cheaper and easily made, since it is literally cast on mud, from which may be molded into any shape the fancy of the architect may dictate. The Gol Gumbaz at Bijapur and the massive dome of the Taj Mahal were raised on the same kind of brick and rubble centering.

There are, in fact, three halls under the same roof. The Persian Hall is the central hall simply astonishing in proportions. The two adjoining halls are equally great. The China Hall is square at ground level, becomes octagonal at mid-height, and 16 sided at the top. The India Hall has been fashioned like a watermelon. These are only minor structural variations. The roof, common to these halls, is flat and in one piece. The Persian architect, Kifait-ullah supervised this unique architectural extravaganza. The acoustics are equally marvelous. Even the slightest whisper can be heard at the other corner of the hall. Light a matchstick and you can hear the sound across the length of the hall.

On the top terrace, approached through a narrow flight of steps, is an amazing set of passages designed to confuse the most alert minds-a labyrinth of interconnected passages that seem to lead nowhere. This is called bhul bhulaiya (maze), which adds an element of wonder to the construction. There are about 1,000 narrow passages where the air is trapped for cross ventilation. This labyrinth served the important purpose of supporting the thick walls of the Imambada, which, in turn, bore the brunt of the mammoth roof. A visitor who has dispensed with the services of a guide may find it rather embarrassing to lose his way. The terrace gives a grand view of old Lucknow with numerous mosques and minarets on the horizon.

Other Monuments

The mosque within the Imambada courtyard is very elegant and the grand flight of steps leading to its paved floor adds the touch of stateliness so typical of the Nawabs.

The most intriguing structure at the Imambada is the five-storied baoli (step well), which belong to the pre-Nawabi era. Called the Shahi-Hammam (royal bath), this baoli is connected with the river Gomti. Only the first two stories are above water, the rest being perennially under water.

The Bada Imambada of Lucknow is the showpiece of Nawabi architecture and a surviving evidence of the charity of Nawab Asaf-ud-daula who would allow him to be willingly duped by fake orphans. He once happily exchanged a useless rusted sword offered by an old woman for its weight in gold. She had complimented him for having he Midas touch. He proved just that. In yet another instance, he paid one hundred silver coins to a boy as price for a pair of common pigeons. When told of the trick the boy had played on him, Nawab Asaf-ud-daula quietly observed, "You think I didn't know that?"

Legend Of Bada Imambada

It is believed that while the foundations for the Imambada were being dug out, structural remains of some ancient habitation became known, and with that a treasure of gold that no one could ever believe. Lucknow has been the seat of some ancient kingdoms long forgotten. Superstition dictated that the unearthed treasure be surrendered to the gods who ruled below the earth. So only a bit of gold was taken and the rest buried forever. The labyrinthine passages on the terrace, some say, are modeled after the secret passages surrounding the treasure that were unearthed.

According to popular belief, there are secret passages in the submerged portions of the baoli, which could lead to treasure below the Imambada. The British had tried to pump out the water but failed to find any clue to the legendary treasure of Lucknow. The keys to the treasure, which also contain the guide map through the labyrinth, were also consigned to watery depths and remained untraced. As unexcavated mounds in the vicinity have occasionally yielded some treasure, these popular myths have gained leverage.

How To Reach

The Bada Imambada is located on the northwestern part of Lucknow near river Gomti. The city is well connected by air with important cities like Delhi, Patna, Calcutta, Varanasi, and Mumbai. It is also linked by rail and road with Delhi, Calcutta, Patna, Varanasi, Kanpur, Agra, Allahabad, Gorakhpur, and Mumbai.

Rumi Darwaza

Rumi Darwaza is one of the most impressive gateways not only in Lucknow or India but also the whole world. The gateway lays Northwest of Bada Imambara. It is interesting to note that Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, like the Bada Imambara, also commissioned Rumi Darwaza. Both were commissioned under the 'Food for Work' program initiated by the Nawab to bring respite to the city populace that was suffering from famine.

The construction of Rumi Darwaza was completed in the year 1784. This impressive gateway is also sometimes referred as Turkish Gateway in the British historical sources. The gate is said to represent the heart and soul of the Awadh architecture when it was at its pinnacle. The gateway that stands 60 feet tall was modeled on the gateways of the then Constantinople or Modern Istanbul. It is actually a replica of an ancient portal at Constantinople. Its uppermost part consists of an eight faceted cenotaph that can be approached by a staircase.

Interestingly the name Rumi Darwaza has been derived from Persian 'Rumi' that means Rome. Rome was also applied to the city of Constantinople because of the fact that it was earlier called Byzantium and was the capital of the 'Eastern Roman Empire' that was later vanquished by the Turks. The landscape around the gate was once very beautiful. In fact this was once the entrance to the walled city area of Lucknow. The gateway has been mentioned in various sources but the most famous one is considered to be the report published by one George Russell who worked as a reporter of The New York Times in mid 19th century. Russell, who accompanied the victorious British army of 1857 Mutiny had called the stretch of road from Rumi Darwaza to Chattar Manzil the most beautiful and spectacular cityscape that he had ever seen, better than Rome, Paris, London or Constantinople.

The Legendary Tale

History has very little to say about the founders or the first settlers of Lucknow. According to a popular legend, Lord Ramchandra of Ayodhya, the hero of the famous epic Ramayana, gifted the territory of Lucknow to his devoted brother Lakshman after his victory over the demon king Ravana. The original name of Lucknow is thus believed to be Lakshmanpur or Lakhanpur. Yet another story suggests that this city was a gift to the holy sages of this region by Lord Yudhishtar’s grandson.

The story of Lucknow, as we know today, begins in 1732 when Saadat Khan, a Persian adventurer, originally from Khurasan in Persia, was honoured by the Mughal Emperor, Muhammad Shah, and was made Nizam or governor of the province of Avadh and later the Nawab. In 1740, the Nawab was called Wazir, which means Chief Minister hence he was given the title Nawab Wazir. In practice from Saadat Khan onwards, titles have been hereditary, inheritors of which were responsible for shaping the history of Lucknow.

Asaf-ud-Daulah was also an inveterate builder of monuments. Driven with an ambition to discover the glory of the past and present and surpass them in magnificence and splendor, the numerous buildings built by Asaf-ud-Duala, like the Bara Imambara built in 1784, the testify to his architectural zeal.

This is indeed a monumental feat considering the fact that it once boasted the largest vaulted hall in the world, with a 50 feet high roof, spanning an area of 162 feet and a height 53 feet in the absence of a single beam! After all, as per the Nawab’s directive, his architecture was to be original in conception with no influence of any existing structure or design.

The galleries and corridors within the great Imambara form a complicated and intricate labyrinth (bhool-bhuliya) through which at times it is difficult to find your way. Its terrace provides a fine view of the Lucknow city. During one of his visits to the site, the pleasing aroma of food being cooked in giant ovens attracted the Nawab. It is here when he discovered the Dum process of cooking, wherein the food is cooked slowly in its own steam, which lends a unique aroma and flavor to the food. Impressed with the process, he ordered the royal kitchen to practice the same method of cooking.

Rumi Darwaza or The Turkish Gate

Towards the west of the Imambara is the Rumi Darwaza or the Turkish Gate built by Asaf-ud-Duala between the years 1784 to 1786. The 60 feet high gateway stands as an equally grand entrance to the great hall. During the Nawabi era, a huge lantern placed atop the Rumi Darwaza would light up the pathway, while jets of water gushed from the numerous fountains created on the rim of the gateway.

Rumi Darwaza While on one hand the Nawabs had achieved a certain degree of independence from the Moghuls in Delhi, they surrendered their hold over the years as allies to the British who were there in the form of the East India Company based in Calcutta. Asaf-ud-Duala’s son, Wazir Ali took over the throne after his father’s death in 1798. After four months of misrule and bad behavior, the British removed Wajid Ali from the throne in 1798, who had by then acquired enough powers to manipulate the events of Awadh. Sadat Ali Khan, Asaf-ud-Daula’s brother, was offered the throne, who during his 16 years of reign, earned himself a reputation of being an able administrator and the most sagacious Nawab that Lucknow had ever known.

Other monuments in Lucknow

Shah Najaf Imambara

Gazi-ud-Din’s most outstanding building is the Shah Najaf Imambara where he is entombed together with his three wives. The Imambara is a huge masonry structure with a large dome. The wise Nawab gave the British a large sum of money for its embellishment and maintenance. Under the terms of agreement, this mausoleum is well cared for and is in excellent condition even today.

Tarunvali Kothi

Ironically, the proclamation of kingship coincided with a period of almost complete dependence on the British. The title of King neither improved the administrative capabilities of the rulers nor their morale. The second King Nasir-ud-Din Haider, son and successor of Gazi-ud-Din, was so effeminate that he often spoke and dressed like a female. His only contribution in the field of architecture was the construction of Tarunvali Kothi, an archeological center, which was equipped with sophisticated instruments and entrusted to the care of a British astronomer.

Muhammad Ali's Imambara

The British crowned the third king of Awadh, Muhammad Ali who was the second son of Nawab Wazir Sadat Ali, in 1837 at a ripe old age of 63. Muhammad Ali was just and popular ruler under whom Lucknow once again regained its splendor for a brief spell. Interested in building activities, he built his own Imambara as well as the Juma Masjid. The Imambara, left incomplete by Muhammad Ali, was later completed by Begum Mallika Jehan of the Royal family. Between the Imambara and the gateway is a large courtyard with a rectangular raised tank spanned by a bridge.

Within the Imambara is the burial place of the king while his daughter and son-in-law are buried on one side of the courtyard. The Imambara is noted for its golden dome, exquisite chandeliers, huge mirrors, silver mimbar, colourful interiors and delicate calligraphy on its arched entrance.

Juma Masjid

The Juma Masjid, with its two minarets and three domes is yet another delightful place to visit in Lucknow. An interesting building built by Muhammed Ali Shah is the Baradari, also known as the Picture Gallery, which houses the portraits of the erstwhile, Nawabs and Kings of Awadh. Here one can admire the marvelous costumes and jewellery that the nobles a adorned themselves with. A patient of chronic rheumatism, Muhammad Ali died in 1842 and left behind a number of incomplete monuments, which would have honored him as the greatest builders amongst all Awadh Kings.

The Sat Khanda (or seven slices) was an edifice planned to resemble the minaret of Babylon with each of its storeys superimposed on the other -the top of which was to provide one of the finest views of Lucknow. Not far from the picture gallery is yet another marvel, the Clock Tower which is said to be the largest in India. This was however completed in seven years at the cost of more than a lakh of rupees- an enormous amount at the time!

Qaiser Bagh Palace

Muhammed Ali was succeeded by his son, Wajid Ali Shah in 1837 who was also the last of the rulers to ascend the throne. A poet, singer and a great patron of arts, his pursuit of personal pleasure left little time for looking into administrative responsibilities. This led to the British annexation of Awadh. Wajid Ali Shah’s single contribution to Lucknow was the Qaiser Bagh Palace built in 1850, which he wanted to be promoted as the eighth wonder of the world!

La Martiniere-A Funerary Monument

The architectural skyline of Lucknow remains incomplete without the mention of La Martiniere-a funerary monument. Built at the end of the 18th century, it is said be the largest in Asia and houses the coffin of its builder, French Major General Claude Martim. Martim had come to India as a penniless soldier but gradually his luck and labor fetched him a fortune big enough to lend a princely amount of 250,000 pounds to the Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah! La Martiniere is today a school of great repute.

Lucknow’s Cultural History Remains Unrivaled

In almost all forms of art and entertainment, Lucknow developed its own variety, be it poetry, music, dance, story telling, fashion, animal combats and gastronomy. The Dastarkhans of the Lucknow courts are still proverbial. In fact the master chefs excelled in their talents to such a great extent that they are believed to have received salaries more than that of the Prime Minister himself! In this period alone, there were more poets that in any other part of the country. Subsequently the Mughal monarchy was battling for its survival and in their sinking empire, had no time for patronising creative talent. This led to the influx of several artists to Lucknow where they received considerable patronage. Cultural refinement was thus, not just confined to the courts but thrived even on the streets and by-lanes of this ancient and historical city.